So here’s what you need:

Male/Female JST connector wires (the original motor connectors fit into the JST females perfectly)
7.5A mini blade fuse for main motor
3A mini blade fuse for tail motor
*** You can use the bigger blades too but I wanted to keep the weight down for the heli
Quick disconnectors
Shrink-wrap tubing (electrical tape would work too but not perferred)

1.  Solder the black wires of the male/female connectors together.  Use shrink-wrap to cover up the exposed solder joint.

2.  Put the 2 red wires together but don’t solder them.  I put shrink-wrap around them just to keep them together.  These will connect to the fuse with the quick disconnectors.

3.  Crimp on the quick disconnetors and plug in the blade fuse.  I covered up the quick disconnects with shrink-wrap as well so I don’t short anything.

4.  I made 2 fuse holders.  One with a 3A fuse for the tail motor, and a 7.5A holder for the main motor.

5.  Plug the male JST connector into the 4in1 of your Honey Bee.  Plug the black motor cable into the female JST connector.  NOTE: Make sure of the polarity too, red is positive, black is negative.

6.  Zip-tie both the fuse holders to a location that is out of the way of the main gears and blades.

These fuse holder will work with all Honey Bee’s and co-axial heli’s like the V3/V4 Lama (they probably use 5A or 7.5A fuses).  I’m going to make a set for the 2 main motors on the eSky Lama too.

More pictures:

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ABS 2″ tubing
hacksaw
mitre box
ruler
angle bracket
C-clamp
Hand clamp

You don’t need all this stuff, all you really need is the ABS tubes and hacksaw. The other stuff just makes your job easier.

Most of this stuff can be bought at your local hardware store. The ABS tubing can be found at Home Depot, Rona, Lowes etc. I got a 3′ segment for $3CDN. I also made about 20 wheels, that’s 5 sets of tires for $3!!

A ruler is necessary of course but you can also use your wheels to measure out the segments.

I got the mitre box at Canadian Tire for like $6. Basically, it makes it easier to make straight clean cuts. Hacksaw was $1 at the dollar store. The other stuff I had lying around the house. You’d probably spend, at most, like $10 on all the materials.

Measure 1″ from the saw line and clamp the L-bracket to the mitre box with the C-clamp. The L-bracket will be used as a stopper guide. Put the ABS tube up to the L-bracket, clamp it tight so it won’t move with the hand clamp. Then start sawing.

After they’re cut, you can use sand paper to clean up the edges. My HPI rims fit nice and snug on them. It requires a little bit of effort to make them fit.

The rims do look decent, but in the photos below I didn’t sand them yet.

In a perfect world, I’d have a table saw and in a even more perfect world I’d be rich enough to afford real drift tires!

Pictures just in case my English is bad:

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I assume you know how to solder and have some knowledge of electronics. If you don’t, please stop right here and run to Radio Shack and pay $100 for one.

Here are some the items you need to convert your PSU (power supply unit) to power a DC battery charger for RC stuff. You don’t need a lot of stuff to do the conversion. All I bought was the binding posts. I have one that is red (for +12V) and the other is black (for ground/negative)

1. Find a PC power supply that can output at least 10A on the 12V. This is the one that is the most crucial. The side of the PSU should tell you the ratings. As you can see for mine, the 12V outputs 16A, which is plenty.

2. Cut off all the connectors on the power supply. Bundle all the wires of the same colour together.

3. The colours that matter are yellow (+12V), black (ground/negative), Green (Power-ON/PS-ON), Red (+5V), and Grey (PG/Power Good).

There should be lots of black/yellow/red/orange wires. There will probably be only 1 grey and 1 green wire. Your colour code might be slightly different, however, on my PSU circuit board it tells you what they are anyway.

4. Solder 3 black (ground) wires to the black binding post.

5. Solder 3 yellow (+12V) wires to the red binding post.

6. Solder the PG/Power Good wire (usually grey) to a +5V wire (usually red).

7. Solder the PS-ON/Power On wire (usually green) to a ground/negative wire (black).

That should do it. Using this method, I never had to put a load on the +5V lines with either a resistor or light bulb.

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PSU (Power Supply Unit)

PC PSU and Great Planes Triton DC Charger. I cut off the clamps and attached some banana plugs that connect to the binding posts of the PC PSU.

You don’t really need a solder iron to convert an old ATX PC power supply for your DC charger. All you need are couple of items found at your local electronics/auto shop.

** Please be careful with power supplies! Even when they are unplugged they can hold power for a few minutes. I am not responsible for any damage to you or your equipment.

Here’s what you need:

1. (1) ATX power supply (preferably 300W or more) at least 10A for the 12V line. There should be a switch on the back of the PSU.
2. (2) binding posts (red/black) can be found at Radioshack.
3. (2) ring terminals
4. (2) butt connectors aka wire splices

Here is an old ATX PSU I had lying around. It can output 25A on 12V. That’s more than enough. Cut off all the connectors (ATX power, HD power connectors, etc.) since you won’t be using them. If your ATX PSU goes by standard colour codes you should have tons of yellow +12V wires and black ground wires. There will be tons of red and orange wires too. Group all the same coloured wires together to tidy things up.

Ring terminals and butt connectors/wire splices. Most of the wires inside a PSU will be 18 gauge (18AWG). That’s how thick the wire is. So look for connectors and ring terminals designed for 18AWG.

Drill 2 holes for the binding posts.

Mount the binding posts. Most binding posts will have plastic that will shield it from touching the case. Don’t let any metal from the binding post contact the metal case or you’ll short something.

Get 2 yellow wires (these will be the +12V lines) and twist them together. You use 2 yellow wires so more current can flow through. The more the better. Then put on one of the ring terminals and crimp them together with pliers. Don’t have any of the wires exposed by crimping the ring terminal as close as possible. (In the photo I was lazy hehe)

Connect it to the red (positive binding post) and bolt it in.

Do the same with the negative terminal. (take 2 black wires)

Look for the PG/Power Good wire. In my case, it’s grey.

Look for the PS-ON/Power Supply On wire. In my case, it’s green.

Strip a black wire (negative) as well as the PS-ON wire (green). We’re going to crimp them together. This will make the PSU turn on. Since we have an on/off switch on the back of the PSU, we can just have a permanent connection.

Strip the PG wire (grey) and a +5V wire (usually red) and crimp them together with a wire splice.

Gather up all the remaining wires and cover them up with tape or heat-shrink so they don’t short anything when you close up the power supply.

Put the cover back on and use a multimeter to test out the voltage. It should read 12V or more.

I’ve converted 2 power supplies using this method and both of them power my Triton DC charger very well.

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You’ll need a DB25 hood, DB25 connector, 1W 10,000 ohm resister, BC548 transister, and a s-video cable.

Find out which wire on the s-video cable goes to which pin. Use a continuity tester.

1. Solder the 10K resistor from pin 10 to pin 16.
2. Solder the transistor from pin 10 to pin 18.
3. Solder the signal wire on the s-video connector to the center leg of the transistor
4. Solder the gound wire to pin 18.

Marvel at my bad solder job. It should look something like this.

Put on the hood.

Finished product.

Install PPJoy and add a new controller.

Edit the mappings for controller. I use just 4 axis with no buttons or POV’s (the TX doesn’t have any).

I also set the mappings for the axes.

This step is vital. You might have to assign an IRQ or enable EPP in the BIOS as well.

Remember to calibrate your controller in the Game Controller panel.

Here are my FMS mapping.

Setup for RealFlight G2.

Setup for RealFlight G2.

Setup for RealFlight G2.

Setup for RealFlight G2.

Since PPJoy installs the controller as a regular gaming device it should work with every game in Windows. I prefer this cable to the mono cable. Have fun.

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This is the simpliest cable you can make for your Walkera 22e TX to interface with your PC. It’s also the least expensive. It costs me 50 cents to make this.

On my notebook, this cable didn’t work too well since it was always very “jumpy”. Too much interference. However, on my desktop PC, it was fine. I prefer to use the parallel cable I made instead.

You need an S-Video cable, and a mono 3.5mm headphone jack. It has to be mono and not stereo.

Get yourself a continuity tester and find out which wire goes with what pin on the s-video plug. My multimeter has one built in, so when you touch one end of the wire with the pin, it beeps telling you complete a circuit.

It really doesn’t matter whether you solder the signal wire to the center and ground to the outside or vice versa. Just solder either one of them to the mono plug. Your axes are just reversed I think.

Put on the plug cover.

Completed jack.

Plug it into your computers mic-in jack. (Line-in works too for some)

Download SmartPropoPlus and put the winmm.dll file into the FMS directory.

Check your soundcard mixer settings. I maxed out the recording volume. Yours may differ so play around with your recording volume settings.

Click the Advanced controls and uncheck “mic boost”. I didn’t need it. But again since there are so many different soundcards, you may need it enabled.

Mute the output volume of your mic so you don’t hear the interference.

Run FMS and check that Smartpropoplus is installed properly. Controls -Analog Control… – Resources

Calibrate your TX with the following these mappings. If your channels are jittery and jumping up and down, adjust the input mic volume of your soundcard. No matter what I did, my laptops soundcard was always jumpy. My desktop’s was fine though.

If it still doesn’t work, open up a sound recorder and see if it’s picking up anything.

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