Filed under: RC Mods
I made the mistake of burning out my 4in1 for my new Honey Bee v2. So in preparation for my new 4in1, I decided to install the fuse mod. Most tutorials showed how you can solder a 7.5A blade connector directly to the motor. However, I wanted to be able to replace or remove the fuse easily.
So here’s what you need:
Male/Female JST connector wires (the original motor connectors fit into the JST females perfectly)
7.5A mini blade fuse for main motor
3A mini blade fuse for tail motor
*** You can use the bigger blades too but I wanted to keep the weight down for the heli
Quick disconnectors
Shrink-wrap tubing (electrical tape would work too but not perferred)
1. Solder the black wires of the male/female connectors together. Use shrink-wrap to cover up the exposed solder joint.
2. Put the 2 red wires together but don’t solder them. I put shrink-wrap around them just to keep them together. These will connect to the fuse with the quick disconnectors.
3. Crimp on the quick disconnetors and plug in the blade fuse. I covered up the quick disconnects with shrink-wrap as well so I don’t short anything.
4. I made 2 fuse holders. One with a 3A fuse for the tail motor, and a 7.5A holder for the main motor.
5. Plug the male JST connector into the 4in1 of your Honey Bee. Plug the black motor cable into the female JST connector. NOTE: Make sure of the polarity too, red is positive, black is negative.
6. Zip-tie both the fuse holders to a location that is out of the way of the main gears and blades.
These fuse holder will work with all Honey Bee’s and co-axial heli’s like the V3/V4 Lama (they probably use 5A or 7.5A fuses). I’m going to make a set for the 2 main motors on the eSky Lama too.
More pictures:
October 11, 2009
Here’s what you’ll need to make some drift tires:
ABS 2″ tubing
hacksaw
mitre box
ruler
angle bracket
C-clamp
Hand clamp
You don’t need all this stuff, all you really need is the ABS tubes and hacksaw. The other stuff just makes your job easier.
Most of this stuff can be bought at your local hardware store. The ABS tubing can be found at Home Depot, Rona, Lowes etc. I got a 3′ segment for $3CDN. I also made about 20 wheels, that’s 5 sets of tires for $3!!
A ruler is necessary of course but you can also use your wheels to measure out the segments.
I got the mitre box at Canadian Tire for like $6. Basically, it makes it easier to make straight clean cuts. Hacksaw was $1 at the dollar store. The other stuff I had lying around the house. You’d probably spend, at most, like $10 on all the materials.
Measure 1″ from the saw line and clamp the L-bracket to the mitre box with the C-clamp. The L-bracket will be used as a stopper guide. Put the ABS tube up to the L-bracket, clamp it tight so it won’t move with the hand clamp. Then start sawing.
After they’re cut, you can use sand paper to clean up the edges. My HPI rims fit nice and snug on them. It requires a little bit of effort to make them fit.
The rims do look decent, but in the photos below I didn’t sand them yet.
In a perfect world, I’d have a table saw and in a even more perfect world I’d be rich enough to afford real drift tires! 
Pictures just in case my English is bad:
June 11, 2007
I converted this PC power supply to power my Triton. It’s really solidly built and has a lot of weight to it. It’s not like your typical cheapy PSU. It has 2 fans, one that blows in and another the exhausts so it stays cool.
I assume you know how to solder and have some knowledge of electronics. If you don’t, please stop right here and run to Radio Shack and pay $100 for one.
Here are some the items you need to convert your PSU (power supply unit) to power a DC battery charger for RC stuff. You don’t need a lot of stuff to do the conversion. All I bought was the binding posts. I have one that is red (for +12V) and the other is black (for ground/negative)
1. Find a PC power supply that can output at least 10A on the 12V. This is the one that is the most crucial. The side of the PSU should tell you the ratings. As you can see for mine, the 12V outputs 16A, which is plenty.
2. Cut off all the connectors on the power supply. Bundle all the wires of the same colour together.
3. The colours that matter are yellow (+12V), black (ground/negative), Green (Power-ON/PS-ON), Red (+5V), and Grey (PG/Power Good).
There should be lots of black/yellow/red/orange wires. There will probably be only 1 grey and 1 green wire. Your colour code might be slightly different, however, on my PSU circuit board it tells you what they are anyway.
4. Solder 3 black (ground) wires to the black binding post.
5. Solder 3 yellow (+12V) wires to the red binding post.
6. Solder the PG/Power Good wire (usually grey) to a +5V wire (usually red).
7. Solder the PS-ON/Power On wire (usually green) to a ground/negative wire (black).
That should do it. Using this method, I never had to put a load on the +5V lines with either a resistor or light bulb.
June 11, 2007
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